How to Recover a Window Seat Cushion using Window Curtain Panels

When we relocated to Atlanta, our son agreed on his new room, but with two major conditions:  That we would paint the room pronto - to cover up the existing pink walls - and switch out the floral window seat cushion, which was very girly.  This eight-year old boy was not at all interested in pink floral.

New room came with pink walls and floral window seat cushion

Why use Window Panels?

My son's room in Savannah sported  navy/burgundy plaid bedding and coordinating, burgundy curtains.  We moved my son's old bedding and window panels with us to the new house. I knew wanted to recycle the panels somehow because they were a great red, matched his bedding, and my decorating budget was meager (at best).  After pricing out custom window seat cushions (they are expensive!!),  I concluded that using the panels for the window seat cushion was our the best option.  

How to Sew a Window Seat Cushion

Materials:

Materials needed for the project

• Two Window Panels (I used 40" x 87" tab-top, brushed canvas panels)
• Upholstery Foam (existing foam cushion measured 4" x 24" x 64)
• Piping Cord (also called welt cord)
• 1/2 yard Fabric (used to cover piping cord) 
• Tape measure, quilting ruler, scissors, pencil or pen
• Sewing machine
• Thread, pins, seam ripper, etc.

General How To:

Measure and Cut Fabric 

• Deconstruct existing cover using seam ripper.

The old cover became the pattern for the new cover.

• Separate each fabric component to create a sewing pattern for top, bottom and box (side band, or gusset) of the new seat cushion.
  Note: The box (gusset) pattern consisted of four pieces, one for each side of the cushion.   
• Lay window panel on large work surface, wrong-side up.  Place cushion-top sewing pattern on the window panel(s).  Use pen to mark new piece.  Use scissors to cut out new cushion top.
  Note:  If the pattern does not already include a 1/4-inch seam allowance, add one.   Mark this fabric, on the wrong side, with a T (for top).
• Place cushion-bottom sewing pattern on the window panel(s) and use pen to mark new piece, including the 1/4-inch seam allowance as necessary.  Use scissors to cut out new cushion bottom.  Note:  Mark this fabric, on the wrong side, with a B (for bottom).
• Place boxing sewing pattern(s) on the window panel(s) and use pen to mark new pieces,  including the 1/4-inch seam allowance as necessary.  Use scissors to cut out new cushion box pieces.  
  Note:  Mark each of the four pieces, on the wrong side, so you know where they go.
• Iron all your fabric pieces to remove any wrinkles.
  Result:  All the main window seat cushion fabric is prepped and ready to assemble.

Create Piping Cord

The existing seat cushion incorporated a teal-colored flanged piping cord detail.  Flanged piping cord is just piping cord that has an additional 1/4 inch of flange for insertion into seams as they are being made.  Many varieties exist and it's available in most sewing/craft shops (use your coupons!).  You can also purchase undecorated piping cord (available in a variety of thicknesses) and cover it in whatever fabric you choose for a custom look.  I needed a lot of piping, and wanted to use about 1/4  inch thick piping.  Making my own seemed the least expensive route.  Below are the steps I took:

I used remnant fabric and cotton cording for the piping

• Cut fabric for the piping cord.
• Note:  I was thrilled to find a video tutorial that shows how to cut and sew continuous bias for welt cord.  The demonstrator created 18 yards of bias from just a 1/2 yard of fabric.  That was music to my ears.  I followed the instructions and had great results.  Watch the tutorial  on YouTube by clicking Part 1 and then watch Part 2.
• Place fabric, right-sde facing down, on a flat surface and lay the cord in the middle.
• Fold the fabric over the cord, keeping the cord centered, and match the edges of the fabric.
• Pin to hold in place.
• Sew the piping closed.  Remove pins as you go.
  Note:  On my sewing machine, the cord rested along the left-side of the foot.  Sew very slowly so that the seam allowance remains consistent.
  Result:  The piping is prepped and ready for assembly.

Sew the Seat Cushion Sides (Box)

• Place two cushion box pieces together, right sides facing each other, on the short ends, and sew together with 1/4 inch seam allowance.
• Repeat with each of the four cushion box pieces.
  Result:  The box, which matches the dimensions of the window cushion, is ready for assembly. 

Attach the Piping to the Seat Cushion

• Lay cushion bottom fabric on large surface - right-side up.
• Note:  I used my floor as a work area.
• Pin piping to the right side of the cushion bottom so that edges match up.
  Note:  Clip the seam allowances of the piping to allow it to ease around each corner as you pin.    Be sure to leave about 1" tail free at the end.

Pin right side of cushion fabric to the piping seam allowance.

• Lay cushion top fabric on large surface - right-side up.
• Pin a second length of piping along edge of cushion top so that the edges match up.  
• Note:  Clip the seam allowances of the piping to allow it to ease around each corner as you pin.   Be sure to leave about 1" tail free at the end.
• Sew the cushion top to its piping.  Remove pins as you go.
  Note:  Start sewing about 1/2" from the raw end.  Allow your needle to follow the curve of the piping as you sew around the corners.  
• When you get back to where you started, cut off any excess tail, leaving about 1" piping to work with.
• Use a seam ripper to peel back the fabric and expose the cording.
• Trim the cording so that it exactly matches up to the sewn-down cording.
• Fold the fabric edge down (to make a clean edge).  Take the 1/2" of material left loose at the beginning and wrap the folded end around a bit.
• Stitch in place.
• Repeat these steps to sew cushion bottom to its piping.
  Result:  The Piping is attached to the cushion top and bottom.   

Attach Seat Boxing

• Re-position the cushion bottom fabric on a large surface right side up.
• Pin the cushion boxing along the cushion bottom so that right sides are facing each other and the piping cord is sandwiched between the cushion boxing and cushion bottom.
  Note:  Make sure all edges are matched up - especially the corners. 
• Sew the cushion boxing to the cushion bottom.  Remove pins as you go.
  Note:  Allow your needle to follow the curve of the piping as you sew around the corners.

• Re-position the cushion bottom fabric on a large surface right-side up.
• Pin the cushion top along the cushion boxing on only three edges - so that right sides are facing each other and the piping cord is sandwiched between the cushion boxing and cushion top.
  Note:  Make sure all edges are matched up, especially the corners, and pin along three edges - two long and one short.
• Note:  On fourth edge (a short edge), measure in about 2 inches from each end and pin.  This leaves an opening wide enough to fit the foam insert.
  Note:  The cover is getting cumbersome at this point.  Hang in there - it's almost finished.
• Sew the cushion boxing to the cushion top.
  Note:  Allow your needle to follow the curve of the piping as you sew around the corners.
  Result:  You should now have a nearly-complete cushion cover!

Phew!  Take a moment to breathe - this was a lot of pinning and sewing. 

Assemble the Window Seat Cushion

• Turn the cushion cover right-side out, straightening the corners as necessary.
• Place the foam insert into the cover.
  Note:  Take your time, the fit will be snug.
• Hand-stitch the opening on the fourth, short end to close
  Result:  Your done!!!  Place the cushion in the window and take a seat.

Window seat cover all finished and placed back in my son's room.

The window seat looks great and, most importantly, my son is happy.

Hard to believe that this was my first time ever sewing - I did not even own a sewing machine before attempting this project. Now, however, I am officially hooked.  See the throw pillows in the picture?  I used more of the window panels and an old quilt to create them.  Check back soon to learn how I did it!  

How to Make a Planter Box Cover Using Tile

Our family room is sunken and separated from the kitchen on one side by a half wall, sometimes referred to as a pony wall.  Whatever its name, ours features a  built-in metal planter box.  I can only imagine that the original homeowners filled this with some sort of exotic, tropical plant material.  When we first toured the house with our Realtor, the planter box was empty.  We joked that it would make an awesome beverage cooler if filled with ice.

In my dreams, we would use the planter box for an indoor herb garden, or fill it with lush houseplants, or even create a living bamboo wall.  Plants and indoor trees do, indeed,  help clean the air and make for a healthy home.  And, who doesn't want a healthy home?

Rethinking the Situation:
Three facts prevented me from actually installing any living plants in that planter:

1. Lush houseplants and herb gardens = regular upkeep and maintenance.  
2. Actual, living plants could obstruct the view when we watch T.V. from the kitchen table.
3. I would need to find new homes for the backpacks, books, and assorted, orphaned objects stored in the planter box.  

Over time, not only was the half wall beginning to look messy (bags were always overflowing), but also I knew it was unlikely I would plant anything anytime soon.  It was time to act.
We considered several options:

• Recover the half wall with new plywood and trim?
• Purchase a slab of granite to slide over the existing top? 
• Knock the whole thing down and build a bookcase of some sort?  

Ultimately, we came up with the winning solution while at a garage sale.  We love to shop garage sales, moving sales, etc. on weekends.  You just never know what you'll find, and the price is always right.  One Saturday, we found two, nearly-full boxes of tumbled travertine tiles-priced to sell and an exact match to the tile on our kitchen back splash.  We bought the tile and quickly mapped out a plan to create a cover for the planter box.

How to Build a Planter Box Cover:
My husband has tiled before, so we already own basic tiling tools, such as trowels, floats, tile cutter, spacers.  Because this project is not nearly as involved as an entire floor, our shopping list, and cost, was small.

Materials we bought at the home improvement store:

• Cement backer board
• Adhesive tile setting mat
• Premixed tile grout
• Pre-primed quarter round molding

Other materials/tools we used to complete the project:

• Saw horses
• Circular saw - to cut cement backer board
• Miter saw - to cut the quarter round molding on 45-degree angles
• Plastic garbage bags or tarp - to keep mess contained
• Tile spacers ; Grout float ; Sponge
• Measuring tape, pliers
• Finishing nails, hammer, spackle 

General How-To:

• Determine the planter box cover dimensions.
  Mark cement backer board, and complete cuts using circular saw.
• Measure and adhere tile setting mat to backer board.
  Note:  The tile setting mat was more expensive than traditional mortar, but was a great choice for this small project.  It's mess-free to install, and we were able to tile and grout immediately, rather than having to wait for thinset mortar to set up.

We measured and cut the tile setting mats to size using scissors before adhering.

• Arrange tiles on backer board.  

Tile spacers ensure grout lines are evenly spaced.

• Apply premixed grout according to manufacturer instructions.
  Again, choosing premixed grout is more expensive than the powdered grout.  This small project only required one package, so convenience trumped cost.  After all, time is money, right?
  Once grout dries, remove haze using a slightly damp sponge.

The grout is dry - time to wipe off the haze.

• Measure, cut and attach trim molding.
  Note:  We debated how to best apply the trim molding.  In the end, we simply created a box frame and placed it around the planter box cover.  We do not plan to remove the cover, so we saw no need to attach it to the tile or backer board with nails.  We also saw no need to paint the trim - it came pre primed in white, which matched the existing white half wall color.

The quarter round molding frames the planter box cover.

• Install the finished project.

Finished planter box cover installed.

From start to finish, this project took us about three hours and cost under $30.00.  I really love the finished look.  If we choose to use the planter box in the future, we just need to remove the cover.

The kids have gotten used to storing bags and backpacks elsewhere, and we are still able to use the surface for temporary storage.    

This was my first tiling project.  It went so well, I may be ready to tackle a larger tiling job sooner than later!

Our Big Green Egg Table

Many of our friends own, and regularly cook on, a Big Green Egg (BGE) - a kamodo-type outdoor cooker.  We've owned our Big Green Egg for one year.  As word got around that we took the 'Big Green Plunge,' friends recommended favorite accessories, recipes, cooking tools, etc.  Most also recommended a Big Green Egg Table.  At the time of purchase, we opted for a nest, or rolling cart, to raise the cooker up to the right height, rather than a table.   We figured we would get the hang of using the BGE and, a some point in the future, use plans found online (thousands exist) and build our own, customized model.

Beer Can Chicken on our BGE

We are one year in and love learning how to cook on the BGE - it has truly been an 'Eggcelent Eggventure."  We've smoked ribs, baked pizzas, and grilled steaks, chicken and burgers.   The BGE sits proudly on our back deck.  We set up a makeshift prep table next to the BGE using an old camping table to provide a place to set plates, utensils, etc. while cooking.  We used a metal trash can to store the charcoal, and repurposed a large plastic container to store tools, oven mitts, etc.

This all worked very well.  Still, we thought it would be nice to have a permanent home to store accessories, such as the plate setter and pizza stone when not in use.  When my husband's birthday rolled around this Spring, I considered buying him a BGE table.  I knew he would love it, but also that he would never forgive me If I paid retail for something he could easily build, let alone if I paid shipping on such a heavy item.

You Say Workbench, We say Big Green Egg Table

I am glad I held off.  A few weeks after his birthday, while at a Moving Sale, we spied a handmade workbench that, with a few modifications, could work perfectly as a BGE table.  The price was right - it was only $10 (!?!?) .  The 3/4-inch plywood alone would cost far more than that.  After verifying that the dimensions would accommodate our Big Green Egg (using our handy dandy mobile device), we paid the seller and hauled it home.  The seller even threw in four casters - what a score!

Workbench purchased at moving sale with hole cut to accommodate a  BGE.

During the next two weekends, we altered the workbench to create my husband's dream BGE table.  Searching "Big Green Egg Table" on the Internet yielded an enormous amount of creative, detailed plans and pictures.  We referred to the Egghead Forum and The Naked Whiz's Ceramic Charcoal Cooker Page the most.  Because we altered an existing structure, rather than build from scratch, these web sites were invaluable.  

Creating Our Big Green Egg Table: 

Some of the alterations we made to the workbench included the following:

• Inset a tile work surface:  We had room to add a 18 x 18 inch tile work surface to the top of the table.  This dimension in Granite was on back order at the store, so we are using Travertine instead. We'll purchase a black Granite tile later on - to give us options.  After some tweaking to get the tile flush, we settled on spare molding and two paint sticks (one previously used).  Thankfully, no one will ever see the inner workings, right? 

Spare molding and paint sticks ensure tile work surface sits flush.

•  Sand all surfaces and Protect Table using Polyurethane:  My husband used wood filler and an orbital sander to level and smooth the surfaces, especially where the plywood and side trim molding meet.  We had enough leftover polyurethane on hand to give the table three coats of protection.

Drying between coats of polyurethane.

• Customize Storage Solutions:  We added hooks, gadgets, etc. - we'll probably add more to get it exactly how we want it.   

A cleat for the grilling light; a swing hinge for the grilling grid when not in use.

Hooks for all the grilling tools.

• Set Cooker on a 2-3 inch thick paving stone:  The paving stone protects wood table from the high heat of the cooker.  Because we altered an existing structure, we needed to raise the cooker up even more than most plans recommend.  We found four paving tiles gave us the height required for the BGE lid's spring hinge to clear the table surface when opening:

Four paving stones raised cooker to proper height.

Let's Get Cooking:
We cooked dinner using the new BGE table  last evening - turkey burgers for a busy school night.  The BGE table served it's purpose wonderfully.  Best of all, my husband was thrilled to have all his tools in one, handy location.  I see many, many more 'Eggventures' coming our way this summer!
    

   

How to Reupholster Chairs and Recover Seat Cushions

I read this quote the other week: "Do something everyday that scares you," by  Eleanor Roosevelt.  I am quite sure she was not referring to reupholstering chairs seats and backs when she spoke those words nearly a century ago.  Nevertheless, her advice rang in my head and inspired me to face a year-long fear and (finally) recover the chairs to our three-in-one game table.

Three-in-One Table, Four Ugly Chairs:
About a year ago, my husband purchased a three-in-one table via an online classified web site.  He'd been eyeing this type of table for awhile and finally found one he could not pass up.  I agreed that it would be a great addition to the basement (I am all about multitasking furnishings).  The table even came with non-folding, sturdy chairs on casters.  Quite an upgrade from the folding card table/chairs we had used for years.  Once home, I helped carry the table to the basement and set it up.  That's when I got my first, good look at the chairs.  Or, more specifically, the fabric on the chairs:

Fabric that originally covered chairs

This fabric choice was really not the look I was going for in the basement.  Or in any room, for that matter.  Ever.  But, I felt hesitant to change it.  Why?  I have recovered dining chair cushions before.  And, I am no stranger to a staple gun.  However, this would be the first time I tackled a seat back  and I assumed it would involve some sewing (I barely sewed at the time).  As much as I did not care for the current fabric, I really did not want make the chairs look worse by initiating a change.  So, I ignored the chairs and hoped I would eventually accept the fabric.

The table worked great.  The chairs' fabric, not so much. 

After all, you cannot have everything, right?  We enjoyed the table and used it fairly often to play cards, shoot bumper pool, and assemble puzzles, etc.   But every time I entered the room, I was reminded of my dislike for that fabric.  For almost an entire year, I was scared to change it.  And then one day, I did something that scared me.

When The Time is Right:
I had been storing some remnant, upholstery-weight fabric in my craft room, originally purchased to recover outdated throw pillows.  For some reason, I decided the time was right to use this fabric.  As I walked around the house looking for a room/couch/chair in need of a pillow, I came upon the dreaded chairs.  Draping the remnant fabric over one of the chairs, I realized it actually looked pretty good with the wood finish and other furnishings in the room.  I used a screwdriver to remove the chair back and was very pleasantly surprised to see I would not need to sew after all - staples were all that held the fabric in place.  I knew then that the time was finally right to recover those chairs.
So I stopped in the fabric store later that morning.  There, I found nearly whole bolt of the same fabric in the clearance bin.  I bought four and a half yards of fabric, picked up some extra staples and headed home.

Materials:

Materials needed to recover chair cushions

• Fabric
• Staple Gun and Staples
  * 3/8 or 1/4 staples are sufficient for most fabric weights.  You will need lots!
• Scissors
• Measuring Tape
• Screwdriver

Tips and Hints:

There are many, many blogs and videos that explain how to recover a chair cushion.  I referred to quite a few.  Some of my favorites include Wiki How:  How to reupholster a Dining Chair Seat and Upholster!  What I will add here are a few tips and hints that helped me with my project:

• Fabric Choice:
  Be sure the fabric is proper weight for the intended use.  Home Decor or Upholstery-weight is the sturdiest fabric.  I am a fan of the outdoor canvas, fade- and stain-resistant fabric (especially with kids).  Though, you can always treat your specific fabric with a stain- and water-repellent before use. When in doubt, ask someone at the fabric store.  
• Yardage: Fabric is sold in widths varying from 36-inches to 54-inches. I referred to the Apartment Therapy Yardage Guide and determined I needed 4 yards home decor fabric in total for my project.  This equated to one width of home decor fabric to cover the seat and back for each chair.  I bought 1/2 yard extra, though.  And was glad I did - by the time I got to the last chair, I did not have enough to do the seat back.  The extra half yard of fabric saved the day.  
•  Using Staples:  If you are removing old fabric, a flat head screwdriver or needle-nose pliers work best to remove staples.  Fold the edges of the new fabric and pull taut before securing with staples to give a clean, professional look.  The directions on the blog, FireHow, offer easy-to-follow diagrams for the recommended order in which to staple.  And, finally, be aware of the screw holes - try not to block them with fabric or staples.   

Fold the fabric edge in before stapling for clean, professional look.

• Finishing Fabric:  My chairs had a piece of light-weight, black fabric covering the raw edges on the bottom side.  I reused this fabric to give a more polished look.   

Finishing fabric on underside of completed chair.

Fear Conquered; Seats Recovered:
I am SO glad I did something that day that scared me and initiated this project.  It only took about six hours from start to finish and cost under $40.00.  Not scary at all!

Ready for some cards.  Euchre, anyone?

How to Make a Dartboard Backboard: Three Designs

Our first house came with a partially finished basement:  one room was finished with a green/white checkerboard laminate floor and decorative (?) cedar wall installation.  We purchased an electronic dart board that used soft-tip darts and played a lot of darts in that room - both on our own and with friends.  And so it went for two years.  The wall became riddled with many, many holes.  We planned to complete the entire basement and remove the wall on which the dartboard hung, so we never cared if the drywall got holes in it or not.

Once we finished the basement, however, we were a bit more invested in the walls.  So, a backer or backboard, used to surround the dartboard and protect the walls became a priority. We've tried three different backboard methods over the years.  This post details each design and provides details on how to create each one.

Backboard One:  Acoustic Ceiling Tiles covered in Felt

For our first backboard, we chose to use left-over acoustic tiles from the basement ceiling installation.  This was cost-effective and, once covered with felt fabric, worked pretty well.  Below are the instructions for how we created the backboard using acoustic ceiling tiles:

Materials:

• Two-three acoustic ceiling tiles - 2 ft by 4 ft
• Peg board to use as a back surface
• Fabric to cover finished board  (we chose felt for the look and price).
• Glue gun
• Drywall screws
• Anchors - if not securing to wall studs
• Construction adhesive
• Screwdriver, drill
• Measuring tape, level, scissors, etc

How To:

1. Determine placement of dartboard backboard on the wall  and cut peg board to size.
   *Our finished backboard was about 4ft by 6 ft.
   *We used peg board because it was rigid and really inexpensive.
2. Apply construction adhesive to secure ceiling tiles to peg board. 
3. Trim felt fabric to size and wrap it around the backboard.  Secure the fabric using a glue gun.  
4. Mark the wall and backboard for install.
   *Cut a slit in the felt before you drill the hole in the backboard so you do not ruin the fabric as you drill. 
5. Drill your holes in the wall.
   *If you are securing into wall studs, drill pilot holes in covered backboard and into the studs.
   *If you are securing into drywall, drill pilot holes in covered backboard.  then, drill and install anchors into drywall.
6. Screw the board into the wall.
7. Install the dartboard onto the backboard according to manufacturer's instructions.

This backboard solution served us well for a long time.  Then we had babies.  And the babies became toddlers, whose large, plastic toys invaded the basement and obstructed our aim of the dartboard and provided a means of climbing up and pulling at the felt material, reaching for darts/cords, and otherwise causing us to abandon any thought of throwing darts until after their bedtime.  By the time we moved out of this house, the dartboard spent more time covered up than used.   

We left the backboard with the house, but brought the dartboard with us to the new house (on the coast of GA), where we lived for five years.  We used it in the garage as we had no basement and, ultimately, the humidity destroyed it.

Backboard Two: License Plates

Last year, we moved back inland, to a house with a basement, and treated ourselves to a new dartboard.  Our new dartboard uses both metal and soft tips, is battery operated and comes in its own case.
So, for our second attempt at a backboard, we opted to hang old license plates around the existing case.  It was a quick fix and served us well.  Following are details on how we created the backboard using license plates:

Materials:

• Old license plates
• Small finishing nails
• Hammer
• Measuring tape, level, pencil, etc.

How-To:

1. Attach dartboard to the wall according to manufacturer's instructions.
2. Determine placement of the license plates and mark wall with a pencil.
3. Use a hammer and small finishing nails to tack the plates to the wall.

This project couldn't have been easier to complete, and we enjoyed the "collected over time" feel the old license plates provided.  Until the kids, now older, and their friends decided to 'learn darts.'  Their throws created a lot of holes in the drywall, on the case, and even the plastic board itself.  Time for a new solution - one that offered more protection for the walls.   And, a new location - one less likely to draw curious non-adult enthusiasts.

Backboard Three:  Cork Flooring Planks

For the third and (final?) backboard, we considered many materials, but kept coming back to cork - mostly for its streamlined, clean look.  We debated using rolled cork or cork tiles.  Maybe we could modify bulletin boards?  After visiting numerous stores, cork seemed too thin to protect the wall and too likely to crumble over time (due to curiosity).  Also, the general method of attaching it (adhesive squares) seemed flimsy.  We wanted something that looked good, was sturdy, and would last.
Then we came upon cork flooring planks.  Why not apply them to the wall?  They are sold pre-finished, come in standard three-foot lengths, and are more than thick enough to do the job.  This turned out to be the solution we chose.  And, we could not be happier.  Below are details on how we created our Cork flooring backboard:

Materials:

• Cork flooring planks- we used four of six planks that came in a standard box
• Drywall screws
• Anchors - if not securing to wall studs
• Wood or composite case molding - thick enough to cover holes created when attaching boards to wall.
• Miter saw
• Wood filler, caulk
• Paint and paint supplies
• Finishing nails
• Screwdriver, drill, hammer
• Measuring tape, pencil, etc.

How To:

1. Determine placement of the backboard on the wall and purchase enough planks for the job
   *Our finished backboard is 4ft by 3 ft, so we needed four 1x3 planks.
   *We got a good price on the planks by purchasing an open box at a flooring outlet.
2. Measure and mark wall for the first plank. Drill pilot holes in the plank and in the wall.
   * We placed the holes as close to the edge of the plank as possible and concealed them with the molding.
3. Secure plank to the wall.
4. Continue the process for the remaining planks.
   * The flooring planks are designed to lock together, providing a near seamless final appearance.
5. Once planks are all attached, create the frame:  measure and cut molding on 45 degree angles using a miter saw.
   * Dry fit if desired.  Measure twice, cut once!
6. Prime and paint molding.
7. Secure molding to backboard using finishing nails and fill the holes/adjust corners with caulk, wood filler, or spackle as necessary
8. Touch up the paint job.
9. Install dartboard according to manufacturer's instructions.

Of the three backboards we've created over the years, this is, by far, our favorite.  The cork planks hide the inevitable holes with its varied finish and it has a clean, streamlined look.

The location of this board is the best of those we've used before as well.  We placed it next to a storage room, so most foot traffic bypasses the area all together.
For us, the third time truly is a charm!

Boxelder Bugs Be Gone!

A few weeks ago, my kids declared swarms of chiggers were on the porch and walkway.  "Really?," I asked.  To my knowledge, chiggers are only found in grass,weeds, and pine straw.  How could they be on our porch?  Besides that, I've never heard of a swarm of chiggers.  We opened the door and both kids proudly presented a swarm of tiny, red dots moving all over the walkway and porch.  The kids went on to tell us how these same 'chiggers' were all over the playgrounds/amphitheater at school that week - my daughter even had itty-bitty red spots on her shorts from where she sat down on them during an outdoor assembly.   I asked my husband to spray the area, which he did.  After a few days, I forgot all about it.  Until I went to prune the Crepe Myrtles yesterday.

We completed a major clean up of all the trees/shrubs in the back yard back in February.  Now that it's May, the Crepe Myrtles are really filling in with new growth, including suckers.  You know, those little shoots at the base of the tree that crop up each spring.  As I pulled and pruned, the surrounding area came alive with bugs.  They were in the pine straw, on the bark and stems of the tree, in the crevices.  All sizes, from itty-bitty to full grown.  Oddly, they were scurrying away from me, rather than attacking me.

Yuck!  I had never seen this bug before and assumed it was some sort of a beetle.  I walked by my mailbox, which has several Day lily plants surrounding it, and discovered another swarm of the same bugs in the pine straw.  Double yuck!  As I walked further around to another flower bed, this one with iris, lilies and a bunch of annuals, I saw yet another mass-several hundred of the bugs both in the pine straw and on one side of a  decorative rock.  Triple Yuck!  

I had to do something.  After an hour of searching the Internet for "red beetle," "red and black beetle," and such, I decided it was a Red Lilly Beetle. Or maybe a Soldier Beetle?  Or was it a Red Netwinged Beetle?  None of the varieties seemed very pleasant to me.  And, since we were just discussing splitting the lilies to fill in some other parts of our garden, I needed to protect my flowers, not sit by and watch them be eaten to shreds by a swarm of beetles.

A garden forum I came across mentioned picking Red Lilly Beetles off the plants individually and depositing them in a plastic bag for disposal.  I had too many to do that.  It also mentioned a specific garden spray, which seemed (to me at least) to be a good option no matter which beetle to be munching my garden.  So, I went off to the home improvement store and purchased a bottle of premixed spray.  I am not a big gardener, and did not want to mess with mixing, diluting, using a sprayer or hose, etc.  The packaging said it would kill on contact, and that was good enough for me.

Except, it did not kill them all on contact.  A half hour later, some were still scurrying around.  I returned to my Internet searches.  Pretty quickly, I discovered the bugs were not beetles after all.  They were Box Elder Bugs. Or Boxelder Bugs.  However it's spelled, they are, as many descriptions say, a harmless, though nuisance, bug found all over the country. Phew.  I have no idea if we have Box Elder Trees in the yard, though we certainly have Maples (they are also found in Maple and Ash trees).  As I read more and more, I realized that the "chiggers" my kids saw on the porch and walkway were, in fact, Boxelder Bug nymphs.  Newly hatched little guys who were looking for moisture and food. 

Most publications emphasize that they are harmless and that it is not essential to control the bugs during early summer.   A few offered an simple, inexpensive, homemade formula that will eliminate them.  I like easy and inexpensive.  So, I mixed up a batch and sprayed.  It worked like a charm. A half hour after spraying them down with the homemade spray, they were dead.    

Homemade Boxelder Bug Spray:

* 1-2 Tablespoons dish washing liquid

* Water to fill up spray bottle.

Shake up the mixture and spray the bugs.  

Why this works:  This soapy mixture breaks down the waxy coating from the bug's exoskeleton and causes the bug to dry out and die.  So, it is only effective when wet, and only when the bug is in direct contact with the soapy substance.  

I plan to use it when I notice a swarm again.  For now, I call them 'controlled!'

One final note:  I found this YouTube video to be extremely helpful in learning about the Boxelder Bug:

Seeing Red

This is a picture of a Female Cochineal Insect:

For centuries, man has created red dyes from the crushed bodies of this bug. Cochineal Coloring or Carmine is present in a product when the label indicates "color added," E120, "Red #4" or "natural color," to name a few. According to the FDA, carmine is used in foods like ice cream, soda, fruit drinks, yogurt, strawberry milk, fake crab and lobster, maraschino cherries. Carmine is also used in lipstick, makeup base, eye shadow, eyeliners, nail polishes, and baby products.

The following video discusses how Carmine is produced and used:

Some people have mild allergies to this form of red food coloring. Earlier this year, Starbucks was in the news for their discontinuation of Carmine use in its product line.  Consumers were horrified to find out the red dye consisted of crushed up bugs.  

Though it seems gross, I much prefer my kids ingest the crushed up bugs than the popular/ubiquitous coloring known as FD&C Red Dye #40, also commonly called Red #40. The following picture is a five-pound bag of FD&C Red Dye #40:

The video below brings back memories of our oldest child at four, the age we discovered the link between FD&C Red Dye #40 and her specific behavioral / mood swings:

  

Toddlers and Treats:


Until she turned four, our daughter existed in the fun, colorful world of toddlerhood: During preschool and at play dates, she was routinely offered colorful, fun, child-friendly snacks, drinks, and goody bags,  At birthday parties, she enjoyed frosted/sprinkled cookies and cakes/cupcakes and left with goody bags overflowing with themed candy.  She learned the holidays by  trick-or-treating, creating gingerbread houses, exchanging Valentine's and hunting for Easter eggs.  We taught her to brush her teeth with children's toothpaste, started her on children's vitamins, and treated her constant ear infections by using children's antibiotics and pain relievers.  


Around the time she was four-and-a-half, she began getting daily time-outs at school and displaying really bad temper tantrum/scream-fits at home. Not all the time, but often enough to concern us. She was bright and strong-willed.  And, she was getting used to having a younger sibling around the house.  However, none of this could account for the behavior displayed at school.  During the Spring parent-teacher conference, her teacher gently suggested that she may be ADHD.  At four?!?! "Give me a break," I thought.  
Finally, after an uncontrollable tantrum at a neighborhood block party (during which she drank lots of red Kool-Aid), we decided we needed to consider the possibility that the teacher was right.

Figuring Things Out:

I surveyed friends, doctors, family members. I researched relentlessly online. I knew that our daughter was normally a very well-behaved kid. However, when she was not, look out. Could her behavioral issues actually be related to what she ate and drank? We were so careful. We bought mostly 'healthy,' all-natural foods, gave her daily multivitamins, and avoided fruit juice, known to be laden with sugar.

We embarked on an elimination diet  for two weeks.  This included clearing out the cupboards, donating/dumping food, and rethinking what food meant to us.  We went completely caesin-free, refined suga-free and dye-free.  Along the way, I learned that it is not easy to convince a four-year old that rice milk and carob-chip cookies are just like the 'old stuff.'  She still cringes when she sees the 'fake' macaroni and cheese at the stores. 


After about four days, I began to see a difference.  She was controlling her impulses better, not throwing tantrums at the end of play dates.  Best of all, her preschool teacher reported no time-outs.  None!  Her teacher told us she was a different child - "Whatever you are doing, keep doing it," her teacher said.


Once we reintroduced foods back into her diet, we discovered that a definite trigger was FD&C Red Dye #40.  This was, unfortunately dicovered at a friend's birthday party during which red jelly beans were prominantly featured.   Back was the uncontrollable child who could not settle down or leave the party willingly.  Wow.  What a revelation.  The behavior/mood swings were, indeed, related to dyes.


Even though we thought we were making safe, educated choices, the food, health/beauty products, medicines that we used on a regular basis were turning her into a 'crazy kid'! The multivitamin, the candy-themed rewards at school, the antibiotics used to treat illnesses: all were making her act out and causing more harm than good.    


Moving Forward:


We knew then that we could manage the madness. However, we also knew that it is near impossible to avoid  FD&C Red Dye #40  in today's society. Preschool and elementary school is overflowing with treats -  for birthdays, holidays, special  projects, even good behavior. 


Playgroup, camp, and sports all include colorful treats at age four and five. In school, candy is used as counters during a math lesson, as a go-to reward for behavior, or as part of the "healthy snack" closet.  And, while most public schools are anti-peanut and anti-dairy, none are anti-Red #40.     

As we progressed through elementary school, I employed some of the following modifications to avoid Red #40:
* Provided weekly supplies of organic, all-naural cookies for the teacher to use as a substitute during parties and lessons. 
* Packaged birthday treats with bright bags/ribbons and left the actual food dye-free. 
* Divided Halloween candy into chocolate-based (which we keep) and dye-laden sugar candy (which gets donated to others or tossed). 
* Provided pennies and stickers to the teacher with which to reward my daughter for academic/behavior successes.
* Alerted the pediatrician as soon as pink, bubble-gum flavored antibiotics were offered and asked for an alternate. 
* Purchased all-natural, organic vitamins and supplements, as well as store-brand pain reliever.
* Brought our own treats/drinks to play dates - with enough to offer to others.


My daughter is now twelve, and politely knows to say "No, thank-you" to red. Most of the time - she is still only twelve, after all. I still dread the social situations that occur around the holidays and the school functions during which the ubiquitious 'goodie table' tempts her with sweets. She usually chooses blue/yellow if given a choice of color, but cannot resist jelly beans or the occasional sprinkled cupcake. When she does have Red #40, it take a good two days for it to go through her system. In the meantime, she has trouble with focusing and controlling her impulses.  

Note:

This is not a life-threatening food allergy. It is simply a food intolerance. However, it is often undetected, misunderstood, and mistreated. Our pediatrician did not know about it. The school nurse did not know about it.  Most teachers do not know about it.
Hopefully, by sharing our story, another family out there who has experienced similar behavioral swings with their child will consider Red #40 as the culprit.