Laundry Room Update: Over the Washer/Dryer Shelf

Phase Three:  Install an Over the Washer/Dryer Shelf

This post discusses phase three of our laundry room update: Creating and Installing an Over the Washer/Dryer shelf.  Previously, we installed a new countertop and laundry room sink and replaced wire-mesh shelving with wall-mounted storage cabinets.

The idea of an over the washer/dryer shelf is not new.  We built one in our Savannah laundry room and loved it:

Inspiration: Over-the washer/dryer shelf in our old home

We just never got around to building a shelf in the new house.   I think I've procrastinated for the same reason we hadn't updated the rest of the room:  Because my dream has been to own a front-load washer/dyer combo, featuring a solid surface folding station built over top.  Or, a front-load washer/dryer combo stacked with ample room for kids' lockers and a broom closet.  All this dreaming of a front-load washer and dryer has kept me from optimizing the laundry room here in ATL.  Until last week, that is.  Last week, we installed the new laundry sink and set off on the path to a complete laundry room overhaul.  I finally accept the fact that, if I really wanted the stackable front-loaders, I would have gotten them by now.  I am committing to the top-loader washer we do have, which (by the way) does a fine job of cleaning the clothes.  So, it's time to optimize the space.

We built a 6-foot long, 8-inch-deep shelf and installed it over the washer and dryer.  A hole drilled through the shelf and an electric power strip attached to the underside enable us to neatly store and charge our Dustbuster in the laundry room.  We could also accommodate an iPod, clock, phone, etc.  Keep reading to see how we built this space-saving solution.

How to Build an Over the Washer/Dryer Shelf
Materials:

• White Melamine Shelf - We bought a shelf that was 1" x 12" x 72".
  Note:  We chose melamine for this project for its smooth, white finish.  For more information on deciding between wood and melamine shelving, see my discussion in my post about the tiered multi-bin organizer.
• 2" x 2" Pine furring strip, long enough to create a cleat underneath the back and sides of your shelf.   
• Decorative Case Molding - To finish off the front of the shelf
• Electric Power Strip (optional)
• Drywall screws and anchors
• Pencil or Pen
• Measuring Tape or Ruler
• Stud Finder
• Laser Level
• Miter Saw
• Circular Saw
• Drill and Drill Bits
• Screwdriver
• Hammer
• Finishing nails
• Caulk
• Touch up paint

General How To:

• Determine dimensions and placement of the shelf.
  Note: We designed a shelf that would meet the following criteria:
  *Span from wall to wall
  *Clear the top of the washer and dryer
  *Obscure the hoses and plugs behind the washer
  *Clear the washer lid when open.
  For our situation, we determined the shelf should be 72-inches long, 8-inches deep and approximately 46-inches high. 

Height of finished shelf

Shelf allows washer lid to open fully.

Shelf clears the top of the washer and dryer.

• Use a laser level to mark a line on the wall at the desired height
  Note:  You will be attaching the furring strip flush with this mark.  The actual shelf surface will be about 3/4" above the 2" x 2".
• Mark a spot every 12-inches or so along the marked line.   Use a stud finder to locate studs.
  Note: Since most wall studs are 16" on center, you must use a combination of drywall screws and regular screws with wall anchors.  The stud finder will also help locate duct work, plumbing, electrical, etc. that is in the walls.
• Drill pilot holes and insert wall anchors as necessary.

Tap wall anchors in place using a hammer.

• Measure and cut a piece of pine furring strip that measures the length of your shelf.
  Note:  We cut a 6-foot piece of furring strip using a miter saw.
• Paint the strip to match your shelf color.
  Note:  We painted only the two visible sides of the wood.

2" x 2" furring strip

• Dry fit your furring strip and mark the spots for the screws.
  Note:  These marks should match up with the wall anchor and stud pilot holes.  
• Drill pilot holes in the furring strip, centered on the strip, at the designated marks.
• Use your screwdriver to attach the furring strip to the wall.
  Note:  Verify level before moving on.  If this furring strip is not level, nothing else will be. 

Match the pine with the anchors and attach.

• Repeat these steps to measure, two cut, and attach shorter pieces of 2" x 2" pine furring strip to the side walls.
  Note:  We butt-jointed two furring strips in each corner.  You could miter the corner joint if you want, but it is not necessary.
  Result:  You have created your shelf supports.

Detail of 2" x 2" supports under the shelf

• If necessary, trim the melamine shelf to the desired depth and dry fit to verify your measurements.
  Note:  We cut our 12-inch deep board down to a depth of 8-inches using a circular saw.  
• Measure one inch in from the back edge of the melamine shelf and drill pilot holes every 12-inches or so.
  Note: This is where you will attach the shelf to the 2" x 2" supports.  Ideally, the pilot holes will enable you to screw into the center of the furring strip.
• If you want to add an electrical power strip to the shelf, this is the point at which you should drill a 1-2 inch hole into the corner of the shelf surface.
  Note:  You can drill the hole after the fact, but it will be much easier to do it now.
• Use a screwdriver and screws to attach the shelf to the 2" x 2" supports.
• Use caulk and trim paint to patch the exposed screw holes.
  Result:  The shelf is attached.  Time to trim it out so it looks more substantial and prettier.

We drilled a hole through which we pass the Dustbuster cord.

• Cut a piece of case molding trim the length of the shelf.
  Note:  We used only one length of trim because our shelf spanned from wall to wall.  

Case molding

• Nail case molding to the front of the melamine shelf using finishing nails.
• Use caulk and trim paint to hide the nail marks and seal any gap along the wall.
  Result:  Now you are done!

Close up of the trim molding

• Want to add the electrical power strip?  Use screws and metal clamps to attach the power strip to the bottom of the shelf.
  Note:  Our power strip is not very pretty.  However, no one is going to see it.

Electric power strip affixed to underside of shelf.

• Plug in your dustbuster, clock, phone, etc. and set it/them on the shelf.
  Result:  You just optimized a normally unused space.  Congratulations.

This project was very straight-forward and inexpensive.  The shelf, furring strip and case molding cost us less than twenty dollars.  The project itself took just a couple of hours to complete (we had to wait for the paint to dry).  Not a bad investment for a shelf that adds so much more functionality to the room.
Check back with me for the next phase of our laundry room update.  I got right to work on tiling the backsplash around the sink.  And, since that tile looked so good, I decided to add tile to the wall behind this shelf too!

Over the Washer/Dryer shelf complete - moving on to Phase Four!

How to Make a Padded Fabric Headboard

We upgraded my son's bed from a twin-sized to a queen-sized mattress set (re-purposed from the guest room) when we moved to Savannah six years ago.  I never bothered to replace the headboard or buy a bed frame at the time.  We were busy renovating an entire house, so our dollars were better spent elsewhere and, frankly, he was still too young to care one way or the other.

Padded Headboard for my son's room.

Once we moved back to Atlanta and completed painting his new room, I had a fresh slate with which to work.  It was time to address my son's bed situation.  I shopped brick-and-mortar stores, online, outlets, as well as garage- and estate sales looking for ideas.  I saw nothing that seemed the right direction.  The only input from my son was he wanted it to be LEGO or baseball.  Go figure.

My inspiration finally came from a metal magazine rack that a neighbor was selling at a garage sale - her son was moving on to college and she was clearing out his room.  I recognized the rack from a favorite retail store, loved the look and felt the it would go well in my son's room.  It even resembled LEGOS in a way.  I bought the rack, hung it up on his wall and decided to make a padded headboard and pillows that mimicked the look of the metal bins.  The headboard I opted to create was based on several padded headboards I admired online and consists of two rows of 12" x 12" padded squares - in colors matching the magazine rack.

Metal magazine rack inspired my son's new headboard.

Researching online, I read several different tutorials for making padded headboards.  Most required heavy backer boards made of plywood.  My carpenter (husband) was busy with other projects at the time so any hauling, cutting, or attaching plywood would have to wait a few weeks.  I wanted the headboard sooner than later so I decided to try alternative materials.

I used heavy-duty, single-wall corrugated cardboard and adhesive strips that claim to be damage-free.  The project required no power tools, cost very little money, could be completed within a few days and (best of all) would be easy enough to change/modify if my son's tastes changed.   Or, if I screwed things up.

I visited my local warehouse club to pick up corrugated cardboard  boxes for the project - for free!  If you look by the check-out, you'll see large bins of these boxes available for the taking.  Next, I stopped by a discount store and picked up a twin-sized foam mattress topper for under $10.00 (I happened to catch a sale) and the adhesive strips.  At the fabric store, I purchased fabric yardage in colors matching the magazine rack bins.  This project took about five total hours to complete and cost very little money.  It was absolutely worth it for a young boy's room.  

If you want to create a padded headboard like the one I made, keep reading:

How to Make a Padded Fabric Headboard:

Materials:

Materials used to create the padded headboard

• Single-walled corrugated cardboard 
• Foam Mattress Topper (Twin-sized topper was perfect for this project)
• Fabric to cover each square
• Cotton Batting
• Measuring tape, Ruler, Marking Pen, Scissors
• Duct tape
• Stapler or Staple gun
• Adhesive mounting strips

General How-To:

• Measure the wall surface to determine headboard dimensions.
  Note:  Queen-sized mattresses are 60" x 80".  I wanted two rows of squares, so the total dimensions are 24" x 60".  Each completed square is 12" x 12". 
• Measure 12" x 12" squares and cut corrugated cardboard to create backers.
  Note:  The cardboard cut like a breeze - I scored one side along my lines with scissors and then scored the other side to separate.
• Measure and cut foam mattress pad to create squares the exact size of the backer.
  Note:  I cut twelve 12" x12" squares and had a bit left over.
• Measure and cut cotton batting to create squares that are 2" larger on each side
  Note:  I cut each square of batting to be 14" x 14"

Cut cotton batting 14" x 14"

• Measure and cut fabric to create squares that are same size as the batting.

Cut fabric squares 14" x 14".

• Iron all the fabric squares to remove wrinkles.

• On a clear surface, place a square of fabric, followed by a square of batting.  Center a foam square on the fabric and top off with a cardboard backer.
  Note:  You could use adhesive spray to adhere the foam to the cardboard if desired.  I did not bother as the squares only measured 12" x 12".
• Fold fabric over side and pull taut.  Use staples to attach fabric to each side of the cardboard backer.  Reinforce and strengthen edges using duct tape.
  Note:  I used a regular office stapler because I knew I'd be reinforcing with duct tape.  Like I said earlier, this was very low-cost and low-tech.

Regular staples worked fine, though you can also use a staple gun.

The back of the fabric square is secured using staples and duct tape. 

• Repeat these steps for each of the squares.
  Result:  You have 12 upholstered squares.
• Install headboard:  Follow manufacturer's directions for using the adhesive mounting strips and adhere squares to the wall in desired pattern.
  Note:  I used four adhesive strips per square and lined them up using a level.
  Result:  The headboard is installed.
• Step back and enjoy!

Completed headboard

It's been three months since I've installed the headboard.  It's held up beautifully - nothing has fallen down, come apart, or ripped.  My son loves it - he actually spends more time in his room reading and playing now. The additional pillows along the mural wall make his bed feel like a day bed.  He now considers his room to be his hang-out, lounging space.  

The Pillows:

I bought enough fabric to make four 18" x18" pillow covers in the same colors as the headboard.  I used all the scraps and extra yardage to make an assortment of throw pillows.  These pillows, along with the silver duvet cover, really tie the room to my original inspiration piece - the magazine rack.  I'll explain how I made all the pillows and pillow covers in a different post.

Our Big Green Egg Table

Many of our friends own, and regularly cook on, a Big Green Egg (BGE) - a kamodo-type outdoor cooker.  We've owned our Big Green Egg for one year.  As word got around that we took the 'Big Green Plunge,' friends recommended favorite accessories, recipes, cooking tools, etc.  Most also recommended a Big Green Egg Table.  At the time of purchase, we opted for a nest, or rolling cart, to raise the cooker up to the right height, rather than a table.   We figured we would get the hang of using the BGE and, a some point in the future, use plans found online (thousands exist) and build our own, customized model.

Beer Can Chicken on our BGE

We are one year in and love learning how to cook on the BGE - it has truly been an 'Eggcelent Eggventure."  We've smoked ribs, baked pizzas, and grilled steaks, chicken and burgers.   The BGE sits proudly on our back deck.  We set up a makeshift prep table next to the BGE using an old camping table to provide a place to set plates, utensils, etc. while cooking.  We used a metal trash can to store the charcoal, and repurposed a large plastic container to store tools, oven mitts, etc.

This all worked very well.  Still, we thought it would be nice to have a permanent home to store accessories, such as the plate setter and pizza stone when not in use.  When my husband's birthday rolled around this Spring, I considered buying him a BGE table.  I knew he would love it, but also that he would never forgive me If I paid retail for something he could easily build, let alone if I paid shipping on such a heavy item.

You Say Workbench, We say Big Green Egg Table

I am glad I held off.  A few weeks after his birthday, while at a Moving Sale, we spied a handmade workbench that, with a few modifications, could work perfectly as a BGE table.  The price was right - it was only $10 (!?!?) .  The 3/4-inch plywood alone would cost far more than that.  After verifying that the dimensions would accommodate our Big Green Egg (using our handy dandy mobile device), we paid the seller and hauled it home.  The seller even threw in four casters - what a score!

Workbench purchased at moving sale with hole cut to accommodate a  BGE.

During the next two weekends, we altered the workbench to create my husband's dream BGE table.  Searching "Big Green Egg Table" on the Internet yielded an enormous amount of creative, detailed plans and pictures.  We referred to the Egghead Forum and The Naked Whiz's Ceramic Charcoal Cooker Page the most.  Because we altered an existing structure, rather than build from scratch, these web sites were invaluable.  

Creating Our Big Green Egg Table: 

Some of the alterations we made to the workbench included the following:

• Inset a tile work surface:  We had room to add a 18 x 18 inch tile work surface to the top of the table.  This dimension in Granite was on back order at the store, so we are using Travertine instead. We'll purchase a black Granite tile later on - to give us options.  After some tweaking to get the tile flush, we settled on spare molding and two paint sticks (one previously used).  Thankfully, no one will ever see the inner workings, right? 

Spare molding and paint sticks ensure tile work surface sits flush.

•  Sand all surfaces and Protect Table using Polyurethane:  My husband used wood filler and an orbital sander to level and smooth the surfaces, especially where the plywood and side trim molding meet.  We had enough leftover polyurethane on hand to give the table three coats of protection.

Drying between coats of polyurethane.

• Customize Storage Solutions:  We added hooks, gadgets, etc. - we'll probably add more to get it exactly how we want it.   

A cleat for the grilling light; a swing hinge for the grilling grid when not in use.

Hooks for all the grilling tools.

• Set Cooker on a 2-3 inch thick paving stone:  The paving stone protects wood table from the high heat of the cooker.  Because we altered an existing structure, we needed to raise the cooker up even more than most plans recommend.  We found four paving tiles gave us the height required for the BGE lid's spring hinge to clear the table surface when opening:

Four paving stones raised cooker to proper height.

Let's Get Cooking:
We cooked dinner using the new BGE table  last evening - turkey burgers for a busy school night.  The BGE table served it's purpose wonderfully.  Best of all, my husband was thrilled to have all his tools in one, handy location.  I see many, many more 'Eggventures' coming our way this summer!