Build an Inground Backyard Fire Pit

Our fire pit

I love a good campfire.  I love the sound and smell of the crackling wood, the feel at the border of cold and warm that defines a fire pit's circle of warmth,  the rainbow of colors in the flames.   It's all good.
As a child, I enjoyed camp fires during family camping trips.  Back then, a camp fire meant roasting hot dogs, marshmallows and HOBO pies.  During my late-teen and early twenties, camp fires were standard fare at field parties or football game pep rallies.  It was not until I met my husband that I ever thought of actually owning a fire pit, let alone building my own.  I've owned three types through the years.  Most recently, we built our own inground fire pit.  Keep reading to learn more and pick up a few tips if you decide to build your own fire pit as well.

An Outdoor Fireplace:  When our kids were young, we signed a one-year lease on a tiny, rustic cabin in the GA mountains.  It served as our weekend getaway - a place to introduce our kids to nature, the seasons, and the joys of the outdoors.  This is when we purchased our first fire pit - a portable outdoor fireplace:

We used a portable outdoor fireplace in front of our cabin.

This fireplace came in very handy throughout the winter months - it gets really cold up in the north GA mountains, and that cabin was rustic - not at all insulated.  Our portable outdoor fireplace was ideal for our situation because it not only contained the fire in a well-ventilated (yet enclosed) area, but it also protected our curious little ones from burns.  We could start up a fire in no time, enjoy roasting marshmallows, etc. and still easily and quickly put the fire out when it was time to go in for bed.

Semi-Portable Fire Pit:  When we moved to the coast, we bought an outdoor fire pit for our backyard.  Sometimes called an outdoor fire bowl, the outdoor fire pit kept flames contained, but had a much more open feeling.  The circumference of our fire bowl was much larger than the smaller fireplace we used previously, which meant more people could gather around and enjoy the ambiance.

Backyard fire bowl in Savannah

Savannah weather is nowhere near as chilly in the winter as north GA, but the fire pit still got a ton of  use.  For the three-four weeks of winter-like temperatures, the fire pit was useful for keeping warm while outside.  Other times of the year, the fire pit was ideal for keeping the bugs away - gnats and mosquitoes hate the fire.  So, if we wanted to enjoy a bug-free evening in our backyard, we built a fire in the pit.  Form and function at its best.

Inground Fire Pit:  When we moved back to north GA, we were happy to learn that our new backyard had an area already defined for a fire pit - the previous owners used the are for their chiminea.

Area defined  for a Fire Pit

We decided to build our own fire pit this time around - to blend with the natural backyard setting.  We knew finding rocks would be no problem.  Why?  Anyone who has ever tried to dig a hole in Atlanta soil knows that it is full of granite rocks.  And, if you drive near any new construction site (roads, neighborhoods), crews often allow you to haul the unearthed rocks away for free.  Lucky for us, a new intersection was going in near our neighborhood and my husband was able to acquire enough rocks for our fire pit - free of charge!  We purchased a couple bags of Quickrete and set to work.  The project was completed in a few hours and, while somewhat messy, was super easy to complete.

How to build a Backyard Fire Pit:
There are several online tutorials for building above-ground and inground fire pits.  We reviewed several to be sure we did not miss anything important.  I'll give you the highlights here:

• Determine fire pit location:  Our backyard already had a designated area, away from the house, where the previous homeowners used their chiminea.  We knew this would be our fire pit location, so we simply trimmed the surrounding trees to ensure that no open flame or sparks would reach low-hanging branches.  We opted to place the fire pit at opposite end of the designated area as well - for better flow.

Choose location.

• Determine fire pit dimensions:  When we retired our SAV fire pit, we kept the cover and grate for future use.  We used the cover to determine the size of our inground fire pit.  My husband dry fit some rocks to make sure the dimensions were what we wanted, and to determine which rocks would be the top layer:

Dry fit rocks around re purposed fire pit cover.

• Prepare the Ground:  We dug down approximately one foot into the ground.  Then, we placed a layer of gravel and the old fire pit's grate to provide proper drainage.  

Dig at least 12-inches into the ground.

• Set the Rocks:  We were aiming for a naturalized look.  We opted to leave the rocks as is - all covered in GA clay - and set them using Quickcrete.  The ground slopes slightly at the site of the fire pit, so we built up the far side by one or two rows to make the top appear even.  And, we ensured that the entire structure was level.

Build up height and maintain level.

Allow Structure to Cure:  We allowed the fire pit to cure for a few days before  its inauguration.

Starting a fire with kindling and pine cones.

Build a Campfire:  Then, we just gathered some kindling and logs, a barbeque lighter and enjoyed a beautiful backyard campfire.

Inaugural fire - Perfect!

Our wooded lot provides lots of kindling and logs, and we keep a container of pine cones nearby.  If I sense we're getting low, I simply get the kids involved - a penny per pine cone makes us all happy.

Firewood and kindling collected from the yard

Does it get any easier?  A natural-looking in ground fire pit completed in just a couple hours.  We've been using the fire pit for just over a year now and love it!  While it is not the north GA mountains, the crackling wood and smell of a campfire brings the memories right back.

Laundry Room Update: Over the Washer/Dryer Shelf

Phase Three:  Install an Over the Washer/Dryer Shelf

This post discusses phase three of our laundry room update: Creating and Installing an Over the Washer/Dryer shelf.  Previously, we installed a new countertop and laundry room sink and replaced wire-mesh shelving with wall-mounted storage cabinets.

The idea of an over the washer/dryer shelf is not new.  We built one in our Savannah laundry room and loved it:

Inspiration: Over-the washer/dryer shelf in our old home

We just never got around to building a shelf in the new house.   I think I've procrastinated for the same reason we hadn't updated the rest of the room:  Because my dream has been to own a front-load washer/dyer combo, featuring a solid surface folding station built over top.  Or, a front-load washer/dryer combo stacked with ample room for kids' lockers and a broom closet.  All this dreaming of a front-load washer and dryer has kept me from optimizing the laundry room here in ATL.  Until last week, that is.  Last week, we installed the new laundry sink and set off on the path to a complete laundry room overhaul.  I finally accept the fact that, if I really wanted the stackable front-loaders, I would have gotten them by now.  I am committing to the top-loader washer we do have, which (by the way) does a fine job of cleaning the clothes.  So, it's time to optimize the space.

We built a 6-foot long, 8-inch-deep shelf and installed it over the washer and dryer.  A hole drilled through the shelf and an electric power strip attached to the underside enable us to neatly store and charge our Dustbuster in the laundry room.  We could also accommodate an iPod, clock, phone, etc.  Keep reading to see how we built this space-saving solution.

How to Build an Over the Washer/Dryer Shelf
Materials:

• White Melamine Shelf - We bought a shelf that was 1" x 12" x 72".
  Note:  We chose melamine for this project for its smooth, white finish.  For more information on deciding between wood and melamine shelving, see my discussion in my post about the tiered multi-bin organizer.
• 2" x 2" Pine furring strip, long enough to create a cleat underneath the back and sides of your shelf.   
• Decorative Case Molding - To finish off the front of the shelf
• Electric Power Strip (optional)
• Drywall screws and anchors
• Pencil or Pen
• Measuring Tape or Ruler
• Stud Finder
• Laser Level
• Miter Saw
• Circular Saw
• Drill and Drill Bits
• Screwdriver
• Hammer
• Finishing nails
• Caulk
• Touch up paint

General How To:

• Determine dimensions and placement of the shelf.
  Note: We designed a shelf that would meet the following criteria:
  *Span from wall to wall
  *Clear the top of the washer and dryer
  *Obscure the hoses and plugs behind the washer
  *Clear the washer lid when open.
  For our situation, we determined the shelf should be 72-inches long, 8-inches deep and approximately 46-inches high. 

Height of finished shelf

Shelf allows washer lid to open fully.

Shelf clears the top of the washer and dryer.

• Use a laser level to mark a line on the wall at the desired height
  Note:  You will be attaching the furring strip flush with this mark.  The actual shelf surface will be about 3/4" above the 2" x 2".
• Mark a spot every 12-inches or so along the marked line.   Use a stud finder to locate studs.
  Note: Since most wall studs are 16" on center, you must use a combination of drywall screws and regular screws with wall anchors.  The stud finder will also help locate duct work, plumbing, electrical, etc. that is in the walls.
• Drill pilot holes and insert wall anchors as necessary.

Tap wall anchors in place using a hammer.

• Measure and cut a piece of pine furring strip that measures the length of your shelf.
  Note:  We cut a 6-foot piece of furring strip using a miter saw.
• Paint the strip to match your shelf color.
  Note:  We painted only the two visible sides of the wood.

2" x 2" furring strip

• Dry fit your furring strip and mark the spots for the screws.
  Note:  These marks should match up with the wall anchor and stud pilot holes.  
• Drill pilot holes in the furring strip, centered on the strip, at the designated marks.
• Use your screwdriver to attach the furring strip to the wall.
  Note:  Verify level before moving on.  If this furring strip is not level, nothing else will be. 

Match the pine with the anchors and attach.

• Repeat these steps to measure, two cut, and attach shorter pieces of 2" x 2" pine furring strip to the side walls.
  Note:  We butt-jointed two furring strips in each corner.  You could miter the corner joint if you want, but it is not necessary.
  Result:  You have created your shelf supports.

Detail of 2" x 2" supports under the shelf

• If necessary, trim the melamine shelf to the desired depth and dry fit to verify your measurements.
  Note:  We cut our 12-inch deep board down to a depth of 8-inches using a circular saw.  
• Measure one inch in from the back edge of the melamine shelf and drill pilot holes every 12-inches or so.
  Note: This is where you will attach the shelf to the 2" x 2" supports.  Ideally, the pilot holes will enable you to screw into the center of the furring strip.
• If you want to add an electrical power strip to the shelf, this is the point at which you should drill a 1-2 inch hole into the corner of the shelf surface.
  Note:  You can drill the hole after the fact, but it will be much easier to do it now.
• Use a screwdriver and screws to attach the shelf to the 2" x 2" supports.
• Use caulk and trim paint to patch the exposed screw holes.
  Result:  The shelf is attached.  Time to trim it out so it looks more substantial and prettier.

We drilled a hole through which we pass the Dustbuster cord.

• Cut a piece of case molding trim the length of the shelf.
  Note:  We used only one length of trim because our shelf spanned from wall to wall.  

Case molding

• Nail case molding to the front of the melamine shelf using finishing nails.
• Use caulk and trim paint to hide the nail marks and seal any gap along the wall.
  Result:  Now you are done!

Close up of the trim molding

• Want to add the electrical power strip?  Use screws and metal clamps to attach the power strip to the bottom of the shelf.
  Note:  Our power strip is not very pretty.  However, no one is going to see it.

Electric power strip affixed to underside of shelf.

• Plug in your dustbuster, clock, phone, etc. and set it/them on the shelf.
  Result:  You just optimized a normally unused space.  Congratulations.

This project was very straight-forward and inexpensive.  The shelf, furring strip and case molding cost us less than twenty dollars.  The project itself took just a couple of hours to complete (we had to wait for the paint to dry).  Not a bad investment for a shelf that adds so much more functionality to the room.
Check back with me for the next phase of our laundry room update.  I got right to work on tiling the backsplash around the sink.  And, since that tile looked so good, I decided to add tile to the wall behind this shelf too!

Over the Washer/Dryer shelf complete - moving on to Phase Four!