Updating Framed Art

Several years ago, we purchased two, coordinating art pieces from a home decorating store.  The artwork was priced right and went well in the dining/living room - the black frames and silver mats picked up on the other accents in the room, and the scene was reminiscent of my beloved marsh.  After a year or so, I began to feel the muted tones and intentional fuzziness of the picture were depressing.  I took the prints down, stashed them in a closet, and replaced them with metal, sculptural wall art.

As we unpacked and decorated our new house, I rediscovered the prints.  Short on art and heavy on walls, I tried the old prints in the new dining room.  New house, new walls, new vibe, right?  I still liked the frame and mat, but the pictures continued to remind me of trying to see through the windshield during a foggy rainstorm (oddly, this is a recurring nightmare of mine).  The prints also seemed too traditional for what I wanted the room to feel like.  I had to make a change.  Determined not to pay retail for more generic art, I looked for inspiration everywhere - art fairs, thrift shops, estate sales, etc.

This past week, I found my inspiration in this tablecloth:

Inspiration for new wall art

The fun, whimsical, yet sophisticated art on this Merimekko tablecloth made me smile as soon as I spied it.  In the store, the tablecloth fabric was stretched over a canvas and hung on the wall as art.  The motif reminded me of a decorative platter I already have in my dining room, and speaks to the framed, black-and-white sketch art in my living room.  I bought a tablecloth and three napkins and headed home.


Originally, I figured I would cut up the tablecloth and staple it to stretcher frames.  Ultimately, I decided to use the tablecloth as designed (on the table) and frame two of the napkins instead.   Keep reading to learn how to I did it:


How To Update Artwork from Framed Print to Framed Fabric:


Materials:

• Fabric - in my case, I used a 20" x 20" napkin for each frame
• Iron and ironing board
• Pencil
• Tape Measure or Ruler
• Scissors
• Tape
• Framed Print

General How-To:

• Iron the fabric.

Napkin before ironing

• Place the framed art on a large work surface, front-side down and carefully slit the paper backing on three sides using scissors.Note:  I worked on the dining room floor.

Slit paper backing on three sides.

• Peel the paper backing.
  Note:  You should notice small metal tabs hold artwork in place.

Peel paper back to reveal metal tabs.

• Bend back the metal tabs, and remove artwork.
  Note:  Leave the glass in the frame and clean it is necessary.

Remove artwork, but leave glass in place.

• Gently pull mat free from print.
  Note:  In my case, the mat was attached using double-sided tape.  Be very careful to not bend or damage the mat.

Separate mat from artwork.

• Run the mat over your fabric (napkin) until you determine the desired arrangement.  Mark with a pencil and cut fabric to desired size using scissors or a rotary cutter.
  Note:  I cut a 13" x 13" square of fabric, which left a 1/2 " selvage on all sides.

• Tape fabric to mat on back side.
  Note:  Pull fabric taut before you apply tape.  Depending on the fabric weight, you may want to use duct tape.

Cut fabric to size and tape to back of mat.

• Place mat back in frame and top with flipped over artwork.  Press metal tabs down to hold everything in place.
  Note:  Placing artwork back in the frame strengthens everything.  I flipped mine because the white backing of my artwork is white - it will not bleed through the white fabric.  Adjust according to your specific artwork/fabric combination.

Place artwork back in frame, front side facing back.

• Fold paper backing back over your work and tape.

Tape paper backing to secure

• You're done!  Hang back on the wall and admire your work.

New Artwork

I love how this simple update brings a smile to my face every time I walk through the room.  I cannot believe I did not update those frames sooner - it was such an easy project.  I had the frames on hand and spent less than twenty dollars on the napkins.  When my tastes change (and they will), I can easily update the frames again.

Want to try this, but don't have a piece of artwork you need to change out?  Garage sales and thrift shops are full of gently used  frames/artwork.  If the artwork is not your taste, but the frame is in good shape, buy it and change out the art!  Or, just pick up a new frame at a craft shop and frame away!

Denim Storage Bins

I love Pinterest, and have promised myself to try out at least one new Pinterest craft, recipe, decorating tip, etc. per week.  I figure this mantra will keep it from becoming a total 'time suck.'

Today's project was based on a tutorial I saw about a month ago called "Denim Do-it-All Bins".

The original tutorial used re-purposed boy's jeans, very cute fabric and ball fringe as trim.  The pictures were adorable, the premise of the project ingenious - I had to try it.   It seems to have turned out really well.  If you are interested in creating your own, follow this link to access the tutorial.

Here are a few tips and hints I will share after having completed this myself:

Jeans/Denim:  A pair of woman's jeans (sitting in the craft basket waiting to be harvested) was my starting point.  I created the large bin, which measures 10" tall and 10" diameter at the top.  I had plenty of material to cut the bottom piece (a 9" round circle) from the left-over jeans without needing to seam scraps.

Top portion of jeans leg

 Needles:  The tutorial recommends a heavy-duty sewing needle for the denim.  I recently ruining several needles trying to sew through too many layers of canvas (I am a novice sewer, remember?).  I invested in some heavy-duty needles and loved my results.  Denim needles are well worth the investment.

Heavy-duty Sewing Needles

Trim:  I was initially attracted to the ball-fringe trim, and will definitely use that or flanged piping cord next time I make one of these bins (and I definitely will be making more bins).  The grosgrain is not as forgiving as other trim choices, and ended up showing some ill-placed pin marks.  This was easily solved when joining layers.

Grosgrain from previous projects

Seams:  I wanted to keep all the seams facing the back of the bin (or what I determined would be the back).  This meant I had to be mindful when attaching trim, joining the layers, and top-stitching.  To hide the cut edges of the ribbon, I just folded each one back about 1/4" and sewed it tight.  No on e should see this because it will sit at the back of the bin. the layers.

Grosgrain ribbon edges matched-up and sewn shut

Overall, this was a very easy project to complete.  It took about 3 hours, from start to finish.  The materials were already on-hand, so it cost Zero Dollars.  You cannot beat that price!  And, best of all, I justified my Pinterest habit for another day.

Completed Storage Bin Project

Create Lined Storage Bins Using a K-Cup Box

I love my single-serve coffee machine.  Yes, it is more expensive than traditional drip coffee makers; however, I justify the cost of the required K-Cups by purchasing in bulk at a warehouse club.  I also love organization, and use lots of baskets in my pursuit of a clutter-free, stylish home.  Like my K-Cups, storage baskets and bins can be expensive, so I often re-purpose baskets found around the house or spruce up containers that I find in thrift shops, garage sales, etc.

I began making basket liners when I took up sewing last summer.  I learned to make my very first basket liner via a video tutorial explaining how to make basket liners without a pattern.  Running low on orphaned baskets,  I attempted making an all-fabric storage bin, based on a tutorial for creating oil cloth storage bins.  I also tried a project that created collapsible storage baskets.  Then I came across a blog that explained how to make storage bins using diaper boxes.  I no longer buy diapers.  But I do buy K-Cups!  I decided to apply the blogger's diaper box methodology to my K-Cup boxes.

It worked beautifully.  I love my K-Cup box storage bins, and have created several of them over the past six months.  Once I got the hang of it, I began to also re-purpose shoe boxes and snack boxes.  I make my fabric liners using yardage from the fabric store, remnants, recycled bedding, clothing, etc.  Heck, I may never pay retail for fabric storage containers again.

Lined storage bins I've created

If you want to create your own storage bin, keep reading to learn how:

How to Create a Storage Bin using a K-Cup box

Materials:

• One K-Cup box
• Fabric to cover the box
• Fabric to make the liner
• Spray Adhesive and Tacky Glue
• Tape measure, quilting ruler, scissors, pencil or pen
• Sewing machine
• Thread, pins, seam ripper, etc.
• Ironing board and iron

General How-to:
Part One: Cover the box with fabric:

• Cut the top flaps off the box:

• Measure the box:  Use a tape measure to measure down one side, across the narrow bottom, and up the other side.  Write this down.  Now, rotate the box and measure down a side, across the wide bottom and up the other side.
• Cut your fabric to the dimensions you just measured.
  Note:  My K-Cup box measured 24.5" by 26.5".

Cut fabric to dimensions of the box.

• Iron the fabric to remove any wrinkles. 

Ironing ensures a smooth finish.

• Place the box in the center of your fabric.  Using a tape measure and pencil, mark a diagonal line that runs 2-inches out from each box corner.  
• Use a ruler to mark a perpendicular line from the bottom of each diagonal line to the edge of your fabric.
  Note:  This creates a box in each corner of the fabric.

Mark and cut the fabric and remove bulk.

• Cut along each line (straight and angled).  Remove the fabric from each corner.  

• Use spray adhesive to adhere the fabric to the bottom and long sides of the box.
  Note:  Smooth any bubbles as you go.  Once done, flaps will hang off each long side of the fabric.
• Position the box so that a short side is facing up.  Apply a line of tacky glue to a short side of the box and fold a fabric flap over to adhere, smoothing as you go.  Repeat with each flap on each short side.
• Working with the short side of the fabric, apply a line of glue to the fabric and fold the short-side flap over to crate a flap that is exactly the same size as the short side of the box.
• Glue the short side of fabric to the box and smooth any bubbles.
  Result:  The box is now covered in fabric and ready for a liner.

Fold and glue the flaps, smoothing as you go, to create crisp edges on box.

K-Cup box covered in fabric and ready for liner.

Part 2:  Create a Liner for the Box

The first time I completed this project, I used a tutorial recommended by the blogger. It worked well enough, but I now create my basket liners based on a combination of a few different tutorials.  Here is how I do it:

• Use a tape measure to measure the bottom, one long side and one short side of the box.  Write down these measurements, denoting the length and width, on a sheet of paper.
  Note:  The measurement for the width of each side should match up with the measurements of the box bottom.  The length of each side should be the same.
  Example: My K-Cup measurements are: Short-10" x 7.5" ; Long- 12" x 7.5" ; Bottom-10" x 12"
• Determine how far down you want the liner to hang over the sdie of the finished bin and add this amount to length.Note:  I usually add 2".
• Add an additional 1" to each of your measurements to account for a 1/2 inch seam allowance on each side.
  Example:  My final measurements are:  Short-11" x 10.5" ; Long-13" x 10.5" ; Bottom-11" x 13"
• Use ruler and scissors (or rotary cutter) to cut your fabric.  You will need enough fabric for two short-sides, two long sides and one bottom.

Cut fabric for liner sides and bottom.

• Match the edges of one short-side piece and one long-side piece.  Measure 1/2 inch from the bottom and pin. 

The 1/2" will be used to attach the bottom piece of fabric.

• Sew the sides together with a 1/2 inch seam.  Stop 1/2" from the bottom, at the pin.  Repeat this with all sides.
  Result:  You have a tube of fabric, with the bottom 1/2" left unsewn.
• At the ironing board, leave the tube wrong-side out and iron the seam allowances smooth.

Sew the seam allowances flat before creating hems.

• With the tube still wrong-side out, fold the edge of the completely sewn side over 1/4" or so and iron.  Fold over an additional 1/2" and pin.
  Note:  This will become the hem, so keep the edge as consistent as possible.

Use a six-inch sewing gauge to measure consistent hems.

• Sew the hem along the edge, removing pins as you go. 

• Match one side of the bottom piece to one side of the fabric tube, aligning the corners. Pin in place.  Repeat with each of the four sides.
  Note:  You may need to fold the unsewn flap of the adjoining piece over as you near each corner.

• Sew the bottom to the tube with a 1/2" seam allowance.
  Note:  Be sure to keep your edges are matched up as you go around corners.
  

Straighten the fabric as you turn corners

• Snip the corners to remove some of the bulk and turn the liner right-side out.
  Note:  This project does not necessarily demand snipped corners - I'm in the habit of always do so.  

• Your basket liner is complete!  Trim any stray threads and place it in your storage box.  Fill it up with stuff and enjoy!

Fabric-covered box and fabric liner

Completed Storage Bin

This is an easy project and can be completed in just a couple of hours, and for very little cost.  If you choose to embellish the basket more, with ribbons or other decoration, your options are endless.  And, if you get tired of the fabric liner, it is very easily switched. 

Here are storage bins I've made over the past several months:

I'm using black/white storage bins to contain craft room clutter.

Old shoe box and remnant fabric

K-Cup box, re-purposed window panel  and quilt remnants.

Re-purposed a snack box and scrap fabric from a pillow project. 

Remnant fabric and old shoe boxes

A fat quarter, scraps of fabric and a snack box